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你的位置:潮汕资讯 > 汕头资讯 > 详细内容

手工鱼丸制作过程

来源:汕头都市报 时间:2009/7/7 16:24:58 字体:[ / ] 阅读:463359


姚师傅表演“一手成三丸”。

将鱼剔骨去皮起肉。

摔鱼肉

手工挤丸

最后工序:蒸煮鱼丸。
 

鱼丸,在潮汕地区无人不知,已有几百年历史的达濠鱼丸更以嫩、脆、香、鲜远近闻名,成为潮菜中一颗璀璨明珠。随着现代科技日益取代传统工艺,目前从事手工制作鱼丸的人越来越少,鱼丸究竟是如何制作的也鲜为人知。近日,记者前往濠江区,采访达濠鱼丸的手工制作过程。

手工鱼丸成市场抢手货

将鱼清洗后剔骨去皮起肉,接着将鱼肉置于木桶中,控制手腕使用刚猛掌力快速摔打,最后,师傅们一手抓起一团鱼浆,一握一挤,一颗颗鲜美的鱼丸便出来了……走进濠江区放钓水产经营部,眼前是一派繁忙有序的手工制作鱼丸场景。经营部有关负责人告诉记者,虽然目前还处于休渔期,但每天从这里生产出来的鱼丸产品,仍络绎不绝地销往全国各地。

据了解,直到上世纪80年代初,达濠鱼丸仍以手打为主,后来逐渐引进机器生产,如今机打鱼丸已占领大部分市场,手打鱼丸则仅占极少部分,却成为市场抢手货。据介绍,手打鱼丸口感更脆更有弹性,机器生产的鱼丸则在效率上更胜一筹,价格也较便宜,每市斤要比手打的低几块钱。

鱼丸制作工序繁琐

师傅们告诉记者,要制作口味上乘的鱼丸,选料极为关键。虽然大多鱼类都可制作鱼丸,但经多年尝试,那哥鱼(学名蛇鲻)、海鳗、马鲛鱼、淡甲鱼等都是不错的材料,其中那哥鱼以肉质雪白、富含胶质、腥味较轻为最佳。

在现场看到,选好料后,师傅们就进行前期处理,将鱼洗净后斩头去尾去肚,然后剔骨去皮起肉,整条鱼转眼间就“脱胎换骨”成为一堆鱼肉。据介绍,一市斤鲜鱼大约只能提取半市斤鱼肉;接着,鱼肉还需进一步变成鱼浆,师傅们将鱼肉置于特制木桶中,加入调料,控制手腕使用掌力快速摔打鱼肉,直至其胶质吐出呈黏糊状。据悉,这道工序大有讲究:要用力又用势,摔打不够,鱼的胶浆不吐,制成的鱼丸松散而没弹性;摔打过度,鱼浆变老,制成的鱼丸则没有脆、嫩的质感。

把鱼肉制成鱼浆后,紧接着一步便是“成丸”了,这一过程进行得越快越好,必须尽量避免鱼浆凝结影响鱼丸口感。记者看到,手工挤丸的过程就像绣花织毛衣一样,需要两手灵活配合才能完成。师傅们一手抓起一团鱼浆,轻轻一握一挤,一个球形鱼丸便从虎口处钻了出来;再用另一只手轻轻一抹,将丸放进50℃的水中,鱼丸便初步成型了。

为让鱼丸进一步凝结胶化,每隔5分钟,师傅们便往盆中加热水,以保证鱼丸凝结过程所需水温,这个过程需持续约70分钟。最后再把鱼丸放在开水中蒸煮一下,便大功告成。

摔鱼肉摔出职业病

在现场见到两位打鱼丸的老师傅:姚松德和庄承有,两人都从十几岁就开始手打鱼丸,至今已有20多年经验。姚师傅现场表演了“摔打鱼肉”和“一手成三丸”两项技艺:摔打鱼肉时,姚师傅双脚前后叉开,一手握住木桶,一手运用关节力不断朝桶壁方向摔打鱼肉,10分钟下来,他已大汗淋漓。“一手成三丸”则需要娴熟的双手配合,非一朝一夕所能练就,当3颗鱼丸同时在姚师傅手掌中滚动时,在场的人禁不住啧啧称赞。

一旁的庄师傅手上绑着厚厚的绷带,他说:“这是20多年落下的职业病。”原来,每回摔打鱼肉时手腕关节很容易被扭伤,长期下来便落下了病根,遇到天气不好的时候便隐隐作痛。看来,每一颗鲜甜可口的鱼丸,真可谓“粒粒皆辛苦”,而这也成为手工制作鱼丸的人越来越少的主要原因。

作者:郑成武 责任编辑:9013 分享:收蒧 | 复制网址
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